It's taken a while but here's our blog on our trip to Lisbon.
Trip started early, 4:45 our taxi called to say he was downstairs ready for us, Jackie had accidentally booked for 5am when we actually needed the taxi for 5:45. We told the driver that we'd be down in an hour, he seemed ok about that.
Flight was relatively uneventful, although the usual smattering of munters on the easyjet flight.
We managed to get the only taxi driver in Lisbon which not only didn't speak any English and also had no idea how to get to our accommodation. After asking numerous other cabbies at the airport and a few people along the way we got there in the end and given we'd started out so early we were in no rush.
Upstairs at our B&B we were able to check in to our room despite it being very early, the guy who checked us in was a bit weird/vacant, when I asked if he was local he gave me the reason he seemed so vacant - he was from Texas.
Our room was really nice with a separate lounge. The roof terrace did have great views as promised on the web, after resting up from our early start we strolled into town.
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View from our window of Basilica de Estrela |
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View from our room over the city |
It was a Sunday so very quiet, very few shops were opened but it was interesting exploring Lisbon, it's got wonderful old buildings, cobbled roads and footpaths, old electric trams and lots of street art / graffiti.
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Lots of buildings like this, run down but appealing all the same
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One of our first stops was a supermarket where we bought some supplies for our few days and some lunch, visiting supermarkets in other countries is always interesting. One of the interesting things about this supermarket is that the checkout girl was extremely attractive (Jackie's words, not mine, although I would have to agree). Oh yeah, the other interesting thing was the dog that was left at the entrance which had deposited shit all over the entrance. Nice. We learnt that Lisbon is one of those places where you've got to watch where you walk or end up with shit on your shoe.
As we were walking up one of the many steep roads looking in shops Jackie commented that she would love a cup of tea, the next shop we saw was a tea shop, called Tease (it's worth having a look at their blog, it's pretty cool...
http://teasebakery.blogspot.com/) so in we went for tea and cake, yum.
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Jackie enjoying tea and cake at Tease
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More walking back to the B&B, Jackie stopped in at another supermarket, I hung out in the park with the locals.
Next morning at breakfast we met the B&B owner, Francisco, who we'd heard a lot about. He gave us the tip to catch the #28 tram to Garca and then walk back from there, go to the castle, walk through Alfama and back through town and Biarra Alto to the B&B, which is exactly what we did.
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The # 28 tram at Basilica de Estrela |
The castle was interesting, we had a lost scarf moment there but I saved the day through some communication with the locals.
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Jackie at the castle, this was the last citing of the scarf (tucked into handbag) and was a vital clue in us tracking down the lost item of clothing. |
Lunch at Alfama Grill was very nice (fish for me, Portuguese chicken for Jackie), it was made all the better as we were sitting outside in the warm sun.
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Alfama Grill where we had lunch
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That night we went to a local Arabic restaurant which was empty but very good and reasonably priced.
Next day we bought a day travel pass and caught the tram to Belem, which is a suburb on the edge of Lisbon where a lot of the Portuguese explorers departed from. There are a few monuments, a monestry and historic tower there.
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Toure de Belem, the Belem Tower, it used to be in the middle of the river but now is on the river bank, perhaps if the ice caps keep melting it will end up in the middle of the river again.
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However I think Belem is most famous for the Pasteis de Belem, which is a variation on the famous Pasteis de Nada (Portuguese custard tart). You can only buy Pasteis de Belem at one place (visit here for the low down
http://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/en.html) and the queues can be very long, we were lucky that the queue wasn't too long when we went so we got our Pasteis and went and ate them in the park, they were very nice, although not sure if they were better than Pasteis de Nada.
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Pasteis de Belem
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We went to the museum of contemporary and modern art which had a free exhibition on maps which was very good, we spent quite a while there.
When we were finished in Belem we walked up another hill (my fault, we should have taken the bus but it didn't look like far on the map) to Ajuda, by the time we got to where we were going we were both sick of walking, although did pop in to cruise around a cemetery, a bit like supermarkets it's always interesting to visit a cemetery in a different country. This one was filled with family tombs, with doors often with glass panelling so you could see the coffins which weren't buried but just sitting on shelves in the family tombs, a bit disturbing - we didn't take photos of this. Ajuda was a bit dissapointing, we got on a tram and headed back in to the city.
With our day travel tickets we could use the funicular, which is similar to the electric trams but goes just a short distance up the steep hills. It was fun if a little pointless.
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The funicular - the easy way to go up and down hills
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It did take us to Biarra Alto which has plenty of restaurants, we stopped in at a cool wine bar before finding a nice restaurant for dinner.
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Wine bar
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Headed back to the B&B, checked out the night views from the roof terrace before bed.
On our last day we went to a suburb up the road called Campo de Orique which isn't at all touristy, we went to the local market with fishmongers and butchers and strolled around the shops before sitting in the park watching an old lady try and feed the turtle with lettuce, the big duck seemed to get all the food. We then picked up a travel card and headed back in to the city for some final site seeing, lunch and another funicular ride.
Back to the B&B we picked up our bags and got our prebooked taxi who drove like a maniac all the way to the airport where we had masses of time to recover before getting our flight. The flight was ok but getting from the plane to home was a nightmare, but we got there in the end.
Short impressions of Lisbon: lots of hills, old people, graffiti, cool shops. A great place for a short holiday.
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Refreshment of choice in Lisbon
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My favourite piece of graffiti
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Chritso Rei, statue
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Jackie heading up one of many hills in Lisbon, our calf muscles hurt a lot at the end of every day from all the walking up hills
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